Honestly, the sheer number of cheap plastic mounts that crumble after a year or two is enough to make you want to go back to tin cans and string. I’ve wasted enough money on those flimsy things.
Getting your Blink camera securely attached shouldn’t feel like a black-belt ninja test. It’s supposed to be simple, right? Apparently not, if you listen to half the stuff online.
This guide cuts through the noise, the overpriced doodads, and the instructions that make zero sense. We’re talking about how to get Blink camera on mount without wanting to throw the whole setup out the window.
The Mounts Blink *should* Be Shipping With
Look, it’s 2024. If a company selling cameras that are supposed to be “easy” can’t even get a decent mount in the box, that’s a problem. The standard Blink mounts? They’re… functional. Barely. They often feel like they’ll snap if you look at them too hard, especially the little plastic ball joint things. I swear, after my third attempt to adjust one in the summer heat, it just gave up the ghost. Totally brittle.
This is where I’ve learned the hard way: don’t rely solely on what comes in the box. You’re likely going to need to invest a bit more, and I’ll tell you why the common advice to just “use the included hardware” is often a recipe for frustration.
My Dumbest Mount Mistake (so You Don’t Repeat It)
So, I was setting up my Blink Outdoor camera outside my garage. The included mount felt… okay. I thought, “How hard can this be?” I screwed it into the wooden fascia board. It held. For about two weeks. Then, during a pretty decent rainstorm, the whole thing just sagged. Turns out, not only was the plastic mount weak, but the tiny screws they provide? They’re basically glorified nails. They pulled right out of the wood like they were never there. I ended up with a camera dangling precariously, its little eyeball staring at the ground. Cost me a replacement camera that got waterlogged. That was a solid $80 lesson learned. The advice I saw everywhere was “secure it firmly,” but nobody mentioned the *quality* of the securing hardware or the sheer inadequacy of the basic mount for outdoor elements. (See Also: How To Reset Zosi Camera System )
The Contradictory Truth About Blink Mount Options
Everyone says “buy a third-party mount.” And yeah, that’s mostly true. But here’s the thing they *don’t* always emphasize: the cheapest ones are often just as bad, if not worse, than the one Blink gives you. I’ve seen mounts advertised that look like they’re made of recycled soda cans. They might be cheaper, but what’s the point if they fail in six months? I spent around $45 testing two different brands of supposedly “heavy-duty” aftermarket mounts before finding ones that didn’t feel like a toy.
My opinion? Don’t just grab the cheapest option. Look for mounts made of metal, specifically aluminum or steel. Check reviews for mentions of durability in different weather conditions. People often focus on ease of installation, which is important, but neglecting long-term structural integrity is a mistake I’ve made multiple times.
Finding the Right Fit: Metal Over Plastic
This is where things get serious. The Blink cameras, particularly the newer models like the Blink Outdoor and Blink XT series, have a standard screw thread on the back. This is good news. It means you’re not locked into proprietary blink-only mounting solutions. You can actually use a lot of generic camera mounts, but you have to be smart about it.
Think of it like buying a universal remote for your TV. It *can* work, but you need to make sure the signal codes are compatible. For Blink cameras, the compatibility is physical – that screw thread. But the *strength* and *flexibility* of the mount are what matter. I’ve found that aluminum mounts are generally the way to go for outdoor use. They don’t rust like cheap steel can, and they’re significantly stronger than any plastic you’ll find. The weight difference is negligible, and the peace of mind is immense. Having a mount that feels like it could withstand a light breeze without wobbling is worth every penny.
Types of Mounts to Consider
There are a few main types of third-party mounts that actually work well: (See Also: How To Set Up Trace Camera )
- Gooseneck Mounts: These are flexible metal tubes. They’re great for positioning cameras in tricky spots where you can’t drill directly into a wall or soffit. You can often clamp them onto things like gutters or railings. The only downside is that if the gooseneck is too thin, it can sag under the camera’s weight.
- Adjustable Wall Mounts: These are more traditional, often with a ball-and-socket joint. The key here is a *sturdy* ball joint. Look for ones with a large locking screw that actually holds the camera position. I’ve found ones that use a combination of aluminum and a good quality, reinforced plastic for the ball itself to be a good compromise between weight and security.
- Ceiling/Under-Eave Mounts: These are less common but excellent if you have a suitable overhang. They offer a high vantage point and can be discreet. Again, metal construction is your friend here.
Installation Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Once you have a decent metal mount, the actual installation becomes much more straightforward. The biggest mistake people make, myself included, is not preparing the mounting surface properly. If you’re screwing into wood, pre-drilling pilot holes is non-negotiable. Use a drill bit that’s slightly smaller than the screw diameter. This prevents the wood from splitting, which is a common cause of mounts failing over time.
For brick or concrete, you absolutely need to use appropriate wall anchors. Don’t just wing it. The little plastic anchors that come with some mounts are often too weak. Get proper masonry anchors. The effort to do this right upfront will save you the headache of a camera falling down and potentially breaking. I remember one DIYer I chatted with online, he swore he just hammered screws into brick. Three months later, his camera was on the ground, cracked. A sad but common story.
The ‘no-Drill’ Dilemma
What about mounting without drilling? This is a question that pops up a lot. For outdoor cameras, especially those exposed to weather, truly secure no-drill solutions are rare. Adhesive mounts can work for very lightweight indoor cameras, but for an outdoor Blink that needs to withstand wind, rain, and temperature fluctuations, they’re generally not reliable enough. I’ve seen people try heavy-duty double-sided tape, and while it *might* hold for a while, it’s a gamble. Think of it like trying to hold a bowling ball with chewing gum – it’s just not designed for that kind of stress. For true security and how to get Blink camera on mount effectively, especially outdoors, drilling is usually the most reliable method.
A Comparison of Mount Quality
Let’s break down why spending a bit more upfront on a better mount pays off. It’s not just about the camera; it’s about the whole system working reliably.
| Mount Type | Typical Material | Pros | Cons | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blink Included Mount | Plastic | Free | Flimsy, brittle, poor weather resistance, can sag | Barely adequate for indoor use. Avoid outdoors if possible. |
| Cheap Aftermarket Plastic | Plastic | Low cost | Often worse than included, rapid degradation, can break easily | A gamble that rarely pays off. Skip it. |
| Basic Metal Wall Mount | Aluminum/Steel | Much stronger, better weather resistance, adjustable | Requires drilling, can be heavier, some cheap metal ones still rust | Good value for money, a solid upgrade. |
| Gooseneck/Specialty Mounts | Aluminum/Steel with flexible tubing | Versatile positioning, good for difficult spots | Can sag if not well-constructed, can be more expensive | Excellent for unique installation challenges, but check quality. |
Faq: Your Lingering Mount Questions
Can I Use a Standard Tripod Mount for My Blink Camera?
Yes, if your Blink camera has the standard 1/4-20 tripod thread on the back. Many Blink models do. This is a surprisingly stable option, especially if you have a tripod or a small mount that uses this thread. Just ensure the tripod itself is stable and placed where it won’t be easily knocked over or exposed to harsh weather without protection. (See Also: How To Factory Reset Hikvision Camera )
How Do I Stop My Blink Camera From Sagging on Its Mount?
Sagging is almost always a sign of a weak mount material or a poorly designed joint. For plastic mounts, it’s often a sign of degradation from UV light or heat. For metal mounts, it might be a weak gooseneck or a ball joint that isn’t locking tightly. The best solution is to upgrade to a sturdier metal mount, as discussed. If you *must* use a less-than-ideal mount, sometimes wedging a small, stiff piece of plastic or rubber behind the camera and mount can provide temporary support, but this is a kludge, not a fix.
Do I Need to Worry About the Weight of the Blink Camera on the Mount?
For most Blink cameras, their weight isn’t the primary issue; it’s the combined forces of wind, vibration, and the material degrading over time. A Blink camera itself is quite light, similar to a small portable speaker. The problem arises when a weak mount, especially one made of plastic, is subjected to continuous stress or environmental factors. A good metal mount will handle the weight and external forces with ease.
What Is the Best Way to Mount a Blink Camera Under an Eave?
Mounting under an eave is a great way to protect your camera from direct rain and sun. You’ll typically want a mount that screws into the underside of the eave itself. Look for an adjustable ball-joint mount or a fixed bracket that allows you to angle the camera downwards and outwards. Ensure the screws are appropriate for the material of your eave (wood, vinyl, etc.) and that the mount is robust enough not to sag over time. A metal mount is highly recommended here for longevity.
How to Get Blink Camera on Mount If I Have Vinyl Siding?
Mounting on vinyl siding is tricky. Screwing directly into siding is a bad idea because it can crack the vinyl and compromise your home’s weatherproofing. The best approach is to find a mounting bracket designed to slide *under* a piece of siding, or use a specialized siding clip if one is available for your camera mount. Alternatively, you can mount a small piece of treated wood or a metal plate to the siding using strong adhesive (like construction adhesive) or specialized siding screws that create a seal, and then screw your camera mount into that. For outdoor reliability, avoid simple adhesive solutions directly on the vinyl.
Final Thoughts
So, yeah, the whole process of how to get Blink camera on mount can feel like a bit of a headache. But once you ditch the cheap stuff and invest in something decent, preferably metal, it’s mostly smooth sailing. I’ve found that spending maybe $20 to $30 more on a solid aluminum mount saves me the potential cost and aggravation of a damaged camera or a failed recording.
Don’t let a wobbly camera or a mount that snaps in the cold be your story. Take the time to choose wisely. Your security system depends on it not just working, but *staying put*.
Ultimately, getting your Blink camera securely on its mount is about choosing the right tool for the job, rather than just using the one handed to you. It’s a small upgrade that makes a big difference.